1/8/10
Hey guys,
sorry I never finished this, but I got back to the states and started immediately into school and kind of forgot about posting these last entries in my blog. But they are a lot of fun because it talks about my adventures outside of Delhi in Agra and Jaipur!
love love love
1/8/10
Today was a rather quiet day and it was nice because I felt like we had been going and going for so long that it was hard to exert much energy anymore. In the morning for lecture we had the same guy that took us around the Sufi shrine the night before come and talk to us about what it meant to believe in the Sufi religion, and spoke about the music. I thought that it was really interesting because he was a musician and played Quwwali music for us in class. This music we heard the night before but did not understand what was really being said until he came and explained it. The most important part of the music was that the songs are all somehow connected to Allah in every song. Most of the songs were the Sufi forms of worship like the song that chanted “Allah is, Allah is” over and over again. It was a way that they were showing their devotion because even in their music they were thinking about Allah. Although he did play one song that he said was more of a love song. The instrument that he brought was like an accordion but it sounded a little bit different, but maybe it was just because it was played in a different manner. I enjoyed the cultural lecture because it showed what he really thought about his religion and his love for his Allah. I am not sure how I feel about what he said because I agree that it is incredibly important to live a devoted lifestyle for God and to have everything that you do be for Him, but there are so many parts of the Islam faith that are so far from the truth. I wish that they would experience Jesus Christ’s love because then they would be in a relationship with the God that they would show devotion to, and they would be truly satisfied if they did all of their forms of worship towards Him. I still do not know what to think about this god Allah, but I do know that it is not the Way and the Truth and the Life.
That afternoon we went to an Islamic University in Delhi that Professor Cohen’s sister-in-law works for as a professor. It was fascinating to meet people that were similar to our age and striving for the same things that we are, but are in a completely different environment. We got to spend time asking questions and answering questions. They were fascinated with the way that at UVA each professor can create their own syllabus. Apparently, Universities in India the Headmaster creates the syllabus for every class regardless of the professor and there cannot be much modification. We were able to go see their campus, and they have many of the same classes that we would have for art and computer technology, and English literature. It was really nice getting to talk to the students even if it was for a really short amount of time.
That evening we went to a cultural performance of traditional music and dance of India. It was beautiful, and I love how the women wore colorful dresses and all the dancers had hundreds of bells on their ankles that clang every time they moved. Each song represented a specific time period in India, and the musical style did change dramatically. Sometimes the dancers would dance rapidly spinning and clanging, but other times they moved slowly and gracefully. Afterwards, they had a reception and dinner where there was a wonderful desert that was made with a cinnamon bread with a creamy ginger sauce spread over it. If anyone knows me well, they know how much I adore anything with the ginger flavor! It had been a wonderful day, which was more of a cultural emersion than a tour or history lesson. I enjoyed the change because I really enjoyed spending some personal time talking to native Indians who have such a love and respect for their country.
1/9/10
It’s a Saturday and we have almost been on our trip for 2 weeks. It was probably one of my favorite days on this trip because the sun was out, it was warm in Delhi, and we got to see ruins of one of my favorite parts of Delhi. We started our day early and went to Tughlukabad Fort, but first went to the tomb of one of the kings that was right outside of the Fort. There was a tomb for his dog, which I thought was pretty cool. Tughlukabad had a large wall, but then there was grass and trees amongst worn down stone walls of buildings, mosks, shops, and towers in an old abandoned city. It was beautiful because you look out through this entire fort and all I saw was 2 women who were collecting herbs and holding them on their heads in a woven basket. They were gently walking through the fort with a beautiful grace. Because the fort was on a hill, when you looked beyond its walls you could see all of the hustle and bustle of Delhi, but you couldn’t hear it and you couldn’t tell that it was dirty, loud, and crowded. We climbed rocks and took lots of pictures and just enjoyed the ruins. We tried to convince Professor Cohen to let us have a picnic lunch there, but he said we already had other plans.
We met our tour guide for the rest of the trip, but I do not remember a specific time when he became part of our group. I feel like he just showed up. His name was Manvendra and he was very well spoken and knew the history of anything anywhere we were. Trust me, I tested him =) He was a lot of fun because he brought a change to our daily routine because he walked so fast, and did not let us dilly dally for long. He wanted to make sure that we got as much done as we had planned. We had lunch on Chandni Chowk, the large street that brings you through the old city of Shajahanabad. It was loud, crazy, and crowded. It was funny because when you looked up at the electric lines there were so many that you could not tell which went where, and I am sure that electrician had a lot of problems working on it. I was scared that people would get lost in the hustle and bustle. We went to the Friday Mosque, which is one of the largest Mosques in the world and is where the Muslim population all gathers on Fridays for the prayer. We were actually in the mosque when the call to prayer started, and the people there tried to get us to leave as fast as they could because we couldn’t be there for their prayer. Also, it was strange when we went through the door to the mosque because these men came and put robes on all of the girls (even the ones that were wearing Indian clothing) when we walked in, but the other Indian women in the mosque did not have to wear them. It was the first time that I experienced women’s segregation, and it felt like the rule of the mosque is that every foreign woman had to wear these robes because all foreign women dress inappropriately. Another thing that I noticed was that there was a sign that said unattended women were not allowed to go up to the turrets without men accompanying them. I wonder what would have happened if I were traveling with my girl friends and no guys came along. Would we not be allowed up?
We then entered the Red Fort, or Shajahanabad, which was built by the Mughal King Shahjahan with the help of his daughter, who designed Chandni Chowk back when it was a beautiful marketplace. It was the most well intact ancient ground that we had seen in India thus far, and we got to walk through the grounds, which took a very long time. The walls of the fort where enormous, and we saw where there was once a moat around the exterior. It looked well protected, and even though the British left it rather abandoned, it still held up well. It had been a delightful day filled with history and exploring old ruins. We also took the metro for the first time, and it was surprisingly clean and well attended, which was quite a parallel to the dirty city above it.
1/10/09
Today was a free day, but my roommate Mariam and I decided to take advantage of it and milked it to its fullest. Priti, the CBN India producer, offered to take Mariam and I out in the city and spend the day with us. She took us to a church for service in the morning, and it was the most amazing experience because it was modeled after many churches in America but the seats were filled with Indian men and women wrapped in beautiful saris. To hear them all worship and be so passionate about God with a holy fervor was exactly what my heart and Spirit needed to see to be content with my trip to India. I felt like I had been overwhelmed with hearing about and experiencing all of the many religions of India, and I needed to be refreshed with Christian fellowship. After the service, we went to have lunch with the orphans that the pastor took in and gave a home on the grounds of the church. Most of their parents had abused them or abused someone in front of them, and their nurse/nanny was telling me how having God in their lives has finally given them a meaning for their lives and is helping them overcome the hardship that they were once experiencing. Even though they had so little, even when they were in a CBN sponsored orphanage, their faces were full of smiles and I could see the joy of the Lord in their eyes. Before we ate, Mariam and I passed out Crocks (the little comfortable plastic shoes in bright colors) for the children from CBN, and then two of the children came to pray for us. When their nanny translated their prayer, it was such a mature prayer for such a young boy, who was probably around 12. He prayed that God would bless us in our travels, that He would hold us in His hands in our every move and decision, and that He would continue to reveal His plan to us. It was wonderful. I then passed out my Christmas gift that my Aunt Vickie gave me to the little girls and they loved it! It was a jewelry making kit with plastic jewelry, bangles, ribbons, sequins and other things that little girls loved. I spent some time helping them make little presents for themselves. Even though there was a language barrier, I could tell they were having fun.
Mariam then had a wonderful idea and asked if we could serve them lunch. There was a big pot of rice and a big pot of bean curry and we gave a plate to each child and got to talk to them individually and find out their names and fun little facts about them. They were so happy to see us that their smiles radiated throughout the room! I loved them so much and it was such a special experience. We then went into a separate room to have lunch (pizza, lol) with the pastor and his family, who are 2nd generation Indian Christians. I was able to ask him so many questions about being the minority in such a pagan county, and how to evangelize to people that ignore whatever you say regarding Christianity because they refuse to accept that there is only one God. It is hard to evangelize to people who do not have a religion, but it is so much more difficult to talk to people who have a polytheistic religion and believe so much in tolerance of all religions because they will not accept anything you say as the ultimate truth. He told me that the best way to convey God to a Hindu is to ask them if they are sure of their future and their purpose, and if they know what is going to happen when they die. They cannot answer it, and there is no security in life for them. They gamble and chose the gods of their religion that they think will help them the most and hope that devotion to them will somehow bring them freedom. It was really wonderful to have the council of someone who is living exacrly what he is talking and has a calling very similar to mine. The fellowship and escape from the sinful world that I had been seeing so much of recently has really been like water to my Spirit that was feeling so thirsty.
The rest of the day Priti took us shopping at a handicrafts bizarre called Dilli Haat. It was a lot of fun hearing about how God called her to leave her powerful position as a tv producer and come to work at CBN doing God’s work. She has such a sweet sensitive heart, and she seemed like she really enjoyed spending time with me, when I know she could have been doing everything else that she needed to do in her busy life. She really opened up her heart to me and told me about God’s work in her and God’s work in India. I have a friend in India that is going to last forever.
That night, we said goodbye and gave hugs and kisses to Priti and went to McDonalds for dinner because the residency told us that dinner wouldn’t be served until 9:30! So late. Also, the rest of the group was not back from their day of exploring the city so we spent some bonding time together reflecting on the day. We then decided to go see this chick flick Bollywood film called Pyaar Impossible, and it was really cute even though we could only understand half of it. It was a good night and I made a lot of memories. I was so glad that God worked this day out for Mariam and me, because the rest of the group didn’t come back until 12:30 and they were all drunk and crazy. God saved the two of us from having an incredibly awkward time with them because He is faithful and He knew what I needed for the day. What a wonderful God.
1/11/10
Road Trip!! Today started our venture out of Delhi to Agra by bus. We were up bright and early and left the residency at 8am. Needless to say, we were all a little bit grumpy and just wanted to sleep the entire time. I got a seat to myself, and I got 45 minutes off my computer to watch a Dawson’s Creek episode before I crashed and did not wake up until our first stop. It was a 5 hour ride, which felt like a 19 hour ride. We stopped for brunch and Mr. Rai’s wife’s hotel on the road to Agra. It was cute and had little vendors and rides on Elephants and Camels. However, it was freezing and we all seemed to care more about that then we did about our surroundings.
We then stopped at a tomb where the great emperor Akbar was buried, which was large and beautiful. I can’t wait to study more about him when we get back to college in my Indian history class because he seemed like such a unique ruler. We then got back on the bus and arrived in Agra in the afternoon and checked in to the hotel. It was really cute because it was set up as little cottages where there were 2 different rooms, with a garden and a little porch on the front. It was adorable, but it did not take us long to realize that there were frequent power failures, and hot water for a maximum of 5 minutes. I let Mariam take a shower not realizing that that meant I would be taking the coldest shower of my life.. haha. It was funny because about every 30 minutes all the power, including the lights, would turn off for about a minute and we were sitting in complete darkness at night, which was scary but cool.
After we settled in, we went to the tomb of Jahangir’s father in law from the Mughal period. It was different than the other red tombs that we have been seeing, and it was white marble. It overlooked what was left of the Yamuna river, which is almost dried up during the dry season, but it was non the less a breath taking view. I tried to imagine how wonderful it looked when it was built overlooking the river that wasn’t polluted and there wasn’t a big city in the background. The sun had finally come out as well, and we spent a lot of time just running around, jumping, and taking pictures outside around the tomb, probably because we had been smushed in a bus all day. It was fun.
That night we had dinner in the hot restaurant, which was not that great, but yet again the power went out and we could not see anything at all for a little while, but people enjoyed it and made the best out of it. We had a friend of Mr. Rai’s along with us for our journey to Agra and Jaipur named Hardeem. She is writing a book on discovering yourself and being at peace and she wanted to get to know us to see if she could learn more. She was a sweetheart and really enjoyed just laughing and talking with us. I’m sure there will be more stories with her later. After dinner we invited everyone to our room, ordered hot chocolate and ice cream, snuggled up in blankets, and watched Slumdog Millionaire on my computer. Needless to say I was out in minutes of the movie starting, but we thought it was important to see more examples of Indian life and culture. I think everyone enjoyed watching it while they were writing their journals, and it was a bonding experience. It got really cold at night, and the heater broke. It was not the best sleep, but we were enjoying the change none the less because we have gotten tired of staying at the Meadows Residency in Delhi for so long.
1/12/10
One of those life long dreams that I’ve always wanted to do finally came true today, but first let’s talk about the other fun we had before I talk about the Taj Mahal. That morning I woke up a little late and decided that it would be more enjoyable to have room service breakfast instead because, I mean, we were at a hotel for a change. I also took a freezing shower, but I have learned to technique at the special technique to keep yourself from dying from the cold.
Today I started to actually look around Agra and see the difference and contrast between it and Delhi. It was still a city, but definitely not as large as Delhi. It was still dirty but it did not feel like it was to the same extreme and Delhi, and there were definitely less people walking around the streets as Delhi. I also noticed that there were a lot less beggars in the roads and sidewalks than in Delhi, however there was definitely a difference in the way some of the people acted then in Delhi. I felt relatively safe in Delhi, but in Agra the men scared me because they were very aggressive and vey intimidating to me (which everyone knows is a big deal for something to intimidate me!). At the different monuments that we went the male salesman had no sense of personal space and were grabbing on me, getting in my face, touching me, and they would not listen to us when we said to stop and to leave us alone. It took one of the 6 guys that we have in the group to come over and help me fend them off. They did not care if they were really upsetting me, they just wanted what they wanted and did not care how they got it. The salesmen told me that they would give me change for my 500 rupee note that I gave to pay 200 rupees for some necklaces, but then he refused to give me change once he took it and ran off. I did not know how to react, because I was used to the sales people in Delhi. They were aggressive, but I knew that they were honest and were not trying to take from me. They were honestly just trying to do their job and they were successful at it. These people were rude and inappropriate.
Anyway, first we went to the Agra Fort, which was red like Shahjahanabad, but there was even more intricacy in the details. It was built during the Mughal period and house three of the major emperors; Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan. It was more than a fort, and it was a palace with beautiful gardens, rooms, and mosques where the royal family lived. There was actually a time when ShahJahan was kept in a portion of the palace and was not allowed to leave when he was old and expected to die by his grandson who wanted power. The mass amounts of marble were impressive, and it also had a beautiful view of the Yamuna river, or what is left of it. I pretended to imagine that I was living back in the days of Mughal Empire, and what it felt like to walk to halls of the cold marble palace during the scorching heat that they often experienced. How regal a palace it was, and it definitely is not what I expected from a fort. When you think of forts you tend to think about dark and heavily secured places meant for defense, but this was obviously where the royal family spent their lives.
We went back to the hotel to rest and wait for the sun to come out to experience the Taj Mahal to the greatest extent. Those of us who bought saris decided that it would be the perfect time to use them, unfortunately, I realized after we were on the bus leaving that I had mine draping in the wrong direction. We took a carriage ride on horses to get to the Taj Mahal, which was a fun surprise that Professor Cohen decided we needed to do=) It was lovely. Well, we were swarmed at the Taj Mahal for pictures by all of the Indians. I swear people asked me over 50 times if they could take a picture of me and my Sari, and my little group I was walking with decided that we were going to start charging for every picture taken 50 rupees =) haha. No one actually bought it though. Oh well. The Taj stood alone among everything that I have seen in India because of its magnitude. We spent an hour taking pictures as we made our way from the front entrance to the stairs of the Taj itself. Unfortunately, my camera died, but do not worry, there were plenty of pictures from all of cameras that we had within our group. Although the Taj was huge and beautiful, I was not impressed with the adornment that felt plain compared to the stones and painting and inlay that we have seen at all the other tombs. It was more simply and white. The Taj is the tomb of Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz Mahal, whom he loved so very much. When we were in the Agra fort, the tour guide pointed out the exact spot where Shah Jahan first saw her when she was shopping in the marketplace and he thought she was the most beautiful thing that he had ever seen. Shah Jahan was the only emperor that created such a magnificent tomb for his wife and not for himself out of love and respect. That night we wore our saris and went to dinner at a very nice restaurant that was supposed to rotate on the top of the building, but the wheel was broken. It was still a nice view. Harbeem, the sweet writer that came with us, paid for our meal for us as a thank you for letting her come on our trip. It was a very generous thing, and it was just another example of her kind heart.
1/13/10
Road Trip Part 2!! We woke up and left early yet again. This time we were headed for Jaipur, which was like 6 hours from Agra. The majority of the day was spent on the bus because it was so far away. We did not do very much. We stopped 1/3 of the way at the ancient capital of the Mughal Empire during Akbar’s reign, Fatehpur Sikri, which was also large and magnificient. My favorite part of this walled city was a building that had a giant pillar in the center of the room where Akbar discussed religions. He actually made up his own religion based on pieces of the many many religions that he had learned about. The unique thing about this room was that everyone who came to talk to him where not allowed to see him because he sat up on the top of the pillar and it gave him more of an empirical air when people came to talk to him. I thought that was really interesting because they were discussing religion, which is normally a selfless idea, yet he was making sure that he was above all others none the less. The palace that he built for his favorite wife was also impeccable and when I walked through the rooms I felt like I had been transported in time and was walking through the palace like a royal myself. Haha.
The rest of the day we were on the bus driving for what felt like forever. We stopped at an inn on the side of the road for lunch, and it was one of the most expensive meals that I have had so far in India. I thought that was interesting considering we were in the middle of what looked like a desert with a few agricultural plantations. They must have many hungry travelers that are willing to stop and pay that much for food. In retrospect it was probably only about 15 dollars, which is not that much in America, but it felt like a lot of rupees at the time. As we started to driving in Jaipur I noticed the difference in architecture in comparison to Delhi. It still looked like an old Indian city and not a city that had been rebuilt and changed by Britain. I really enjoyed it because there were a lot of the Mughal inspired arches and designs. I also noticed that it was beginning to look more and more pink as well. It wasn’t really pink though, it was more like a salmon, but it was fun and made it feel like it was a tropical city. We got to our hotel (which was actually a hotel this time, lol) and I was blown away with it’s beauty and the uniqueness of its layout. To get to our room we had to walk up stairs, across a roof, down a hall, and into a courtyard with 3 rooms all facing each other with an opening to the sky. It was refreshing to sleep in a bed with a mattress almost as thick as the one on my bed. I spoiled myself and took a shower for 30 minutes with hot water the entire time, which up to this point had never been the case at the other places we had been staying. I felt so spoiled.
We played on the roof, which was set up like a patio with beautiful flowers and lawn chairs until the sun set. There were kites that we could attempt to fly on the roof too. It was so much fun just sitting in the sun above the rest of the city, and the way the roof was it reminded me of the movie we watched called Delhi 6, when the main character had a habit of rooftop running. For dinner, Kevin, Eugene and I decided that we really wanted to find some meat because we had gone for a few days with only vegetables and carbohydrates. We found an Italian restaurant, which was so weird because it was in the middle of a sketchy warehouse, but it was cute none the less. I had a Hawaiian pizza with ham! I missed ham, and take the meats that we eat in America for granted. Then we went back to the hotel where there was a delicious icecream selection. Mariam and I then chilled in the room and watched Legally Blonde on our flat screen tv. It was delightful.
1/14/10
This was a delightful day although we had to wake up incredibly early in order to fit in all of the day’s activities. I had a wonderful and inexpensive room service breakfast with a huge pot of Indian tea, which has quickly become my drink of choice. We drove for about 30 minutes into the mountains, and we passed through the pink part of the city, where all buildings are regulated to be pink by law. It was fun but not exactly as beautiful as I expected. It was rather plain. We saw the wind palace and I was incredibly disappointed when I found out that the palace is actually not real because it’s just a wall that built for decoration. I still do not really understand the point, but yes it was pretty. Well, while we were driving to the mountains there was a beautiful lake, and through the fog we made out a floating castle in the middle. It was so neat but we could not pay good attention to it because there was so much fog. I must come back and visit that at some point in my life. We were riding through the mountains when we noticed a big yellow wall that was cascading down the mountains, and in the center on the side of a mountain was what looked like a little city. These mountains, which I think are called the Hindu Kush, are some of the oldest mountains in the world and they were not very tall. As we arrived Manvendra told us that this was called the Amber Palace because it was yellow and it was well protected with the mountains and the giant wall that goes for many many miles. We got to ride elephants on the trail up to the palace, and it was so beautiful of a view as we ascended the mountain. The elephants were all much smaller than I thought they would be because I was used to Thai elephants which seemed to be much larger. It was a beautiful day and this palace was so amazing. Apparently the movie Akbar the Great was filmed here and it was very well intact. The country had worked to upkeep it with paint and cleaning. We saw a snake charmer her too, which was pretty neat because it was a cobra and we got to see its wide head with the cape as it sat up. Some of the people in our group paid to touch it. The man played an instrument that the snake responded to. It was just like what you see in the movies, like the Jungle Book (with real actors of course).
We then went to another palace that was further up the hill and much less attractive and was built much later after the British occupied India. There were beautiful sections of the house for each wife, but instead of engraved stone for walls there was painting that gave the appearance of being engraved. Compared to the remarkable handwork and architecture that we had been seeing recently I was not at all impressed. There were also French doors that surprised me. The culture was obviously affected by the west and their new fascination with things like wallpaper.
We then went and saw how a special Iranian pottery was made in Jaipur only and I got a few beautiful vases that were very inexpensive. It was interesting to see how it was made. We also went to see how block printing was done on Indian fabrics. It was a very detailed process, and I realized how inexpensively they are selling the fabrics but how much labor was behind each piece.
We then went to a UVA alum’s house because it was the kite festival in Jaipur. People took this very seriously, and everyone used string for their kites with glass that could cut their opponent’s string. The object of the game was to cut a neighbor’s kite who was standing on their porch flying their kite. It was fun, but I never got the hang of trying to keep the kite where you wanted it and getting it to circle another person’s kite. I was sad because we did not really get a good chance to get to know our hosts because everyone was so interested in the kites. It was still very fun and a good experience. I always thought kite flying was just a leisure activity. I was very wrong. Haha. After this we went to a really cool place for dinner that was set up like Busch Gardens or something, because it was like we traveled in time back to a Rajasthan village, we ate on the floor and had an incredibly spicy dinner that was served with many different courses. There were then camel rides, a lake with buildings that resembled old tribal like buildings, and everyone played the part of an old Rajasthanian. It was a lot of friend and very interesting to have the cultural experience. It was one of my favorite places that we had been for dinner. It had been a fun day, and I felt spoiled between the food, the hotel, and all the palaces we had seen recently. I really love Jaipur.
1/15/10
Well, it is time to go back to Delhi, and we have a long trip ahead of us. This is also the last day that we are keeping a journal because we leave tomorrow to go back home and are just spending the day getting last minute things together. We went back to the pink part of the city for the morning before we left though which was fun. Here we saw the original and HUGE Jantar Mantar, which was yellow instead of red like the one in Delhi. We had a tour guide this time that walked us through each mechanism and explained its use and importance. I felt kind of nerdy because I enjoyed the astronomy part of it so much! We then went to one more palace in the center of Jaipur, and I got a book about the last princess that lived there until India gained independence and became a democracy. It was an autobiography about growing up in India and being royalty, and apparently it is a very famous book too.